2005+ Polaris Sportsman Snorkel Install
This guide was written to show you how to fully snorkel your 2005+ Sportsman. This covers the engine intake, clutch exhaust and clutch intake.
Parts List:
(2) 1.5" PVC couplers. They need to be a slip connnection on one end and female with threads on the other. 
(2) 2" to 1.5" rubber couplers. 
(2) 1.5" plastic or PVC fittings with a barbed end on at least one end. (The other end will be trimmed off) 
(1) 1.5" PVC 45. 
(1) 1.5" PVC 90 - No Image - See completed piece below.
(2) 1.5" plastic or PVC straight fittings barbed on one end and male threaded on the other. 
(1) Piece of PVC, plastic, or plexiglass (maybe) plate. I used some sort of platic cutting board type material. *Don't steal your wife's cutting board from the kitchen*
(4) 2" PVC male screw-in fittings with a female slip on the other end. 
(4) 2" PVC 45's - See completed "stacks" below.
(4) 2" metal electrical box nuts. (to screw on the bottom of the four 2" PVC male screw-in/female slip fittings.) 
(2) Tubes black silicone. 
2' of 1.5" PVC pipe
4' of 2" PVC pipe
About 4' of 3/8" fuel line hose.
Bike Preparation:
You should start by removing your seat, the footwells, front plastic, and clutch cover. I plan to relocate my radiator at the same time, so I also removed my front storage box and radiator.
Snorkel Preparation:
You will need to put together and prepare a few of the pieces before installing them on the bike.
Begin by first locating the two straight fittings that are barbed on one end and male threaded on the other. Using a grinding wheel (or sand paper), sand down the barbed end so the 1.5" blue spa hose can fit on the fitting somewhat easily. You don't want to have to cut slits in the hose to get it on the fitting. I ground mine down so I still have to force the hose on there, but it goes on with out cutting slits in the hose. Do this for both fittings.
Now we need to make the airbox plate. The sealant will need to cure over-night, so plan accordingly.
First, locate the two 90 degree fittings that are barbed on one end.
Trim down the barbed 90's to look something like this. I cut mine just off just above the threads. We want them to still be 90's, but to be real low profile. Keeping them the way they were originally would make them get in the way of the air filter and also stick up too far and prevent your seat from going back on.
Locate your plate material (that is already cut to size) and mark the locations of where you're going to drill your holes for the 90's to sit. Drill the holes using a 1.5" hole saw.
Test fit your 90's in the plate. You will probably have to use a file and round out the holes just slightly to get the 90's to fit. I had to do this and it made my 90's fit nice and snug!
*Notice how a ground down the barbs on one of the 90's. Both of them should look like the one that has been ground down.
I chose to use a product called Quik-Steel to bond my 90's to the plate. You can use Quik-Steel, JB Weld, 2 part eponxy, or just silicone. Just make sure your joints are waterproof.
After a coat of black spray paint, it looks more like a unified piece. And the Quik-steel is rock hard! I had never used that product before, but now I'll be Quik-Steeling all sorts of stuff!
***NOTE - I changed my airbox fitting slightly, you will see in the pictures below, I redid one of the 90's to sit at more of an angle ***
I just drilled about 5 or six holes and bolted my airbox fitting to the lid. I then sealed up the edges using my black silicone.
Now we will assemble the clutch intake PVC fittings. You will need to use the PVC 90, the PVC 45, and one of the couplers with the slip connection on one end and threaded female on the other. You will also need a piece of 1.5" PVC pipe about 2 - 3 inches long. Use PVC cement at all PVC joints. Assemble the PVC as shown:
As an added precaution, I used a little silicone at my joints too. After a coat of spray paint, this is what I ended up with.
Assembe the clutch exhaust pieces in the same manner using the other PVC 45, the other slip-female threaded fitting, another little bit of 1.5" pipe to connect everything and the other straight barbed screw in fitting. You shoud end up with a piece like this:
Installation:
Step One:
Install one of the 2" to 1.5" rubber couplers where the factory rubber coupler was on the clutch cover. This will be a tight fit, but it will go on! I used squirt of WD-40 to help me slide the rubber coupler on.
Next, remove the airbox and the factory clutch intake rubber coupling. Your bike should look like this. This is standing on the left side of the machine, looking into where the airbox was.
I found it was easier to get the clutch intake coupler on once I loosened those three brass screws holding on the back of the clutch housing.
While your clutch cover is off, I went ahead and siliconed around behind the primary clutch around that greenish metal ring. (Picture is before silicone) See all that muddy water residue?
Install the other 2" to 1.5" rubber coupler on the clutch intake. Then tighten the three brass screws back up.
Lastly, reinstall your clutch cover, using some black silicone to seal it good.
Step Two:
Now would be a good time to fix your crankcase vent line. This is what the 3/8" fuel line is for. The crankcase vent is the hose going from your airbox to the top of the engine with the foil sleeve around it. You will need to remove your gas tank and disconnect the factory hose. Replace the factory hose with the 4' long piece. Coil up the extra length and zip tie it together. It will lay on top of your airbox where the factory snorkel used to sit.
***I'll add a picture later***
Step Three:
Slip your PVC pieces into their respective rubber couplers as shown below.
Here's a shot showing both clutch pieces installed. Both clutch hoses will run down the left side of the bike. (This picture doesn't show my ground down barbed fittings - I had to go back and do that)
Step Four:
Now you're ready to start running some hoses.
I choose to wrap all of my hoses with foil tape, followed up by a layer of black duct tape.
Step Five:
Run your hoses however you wish (mine will come up thru the access panel inside my box). You may have to get creative on ways to run your hoses. Everyone does them a little differently. You will probably notice some changes to mine in my later pictures. I'm going to run three hoses on the left and one on the right.
Step Six:
OK, now back the airbox fitting. As I mentioned earlier, I had some issues with mine and reworked it slightly. The problem I ran into was there was no way to run the right side hose straight underneath the gas tank like you see so many people do. I don't know if it's because mine's a twin or because it's a 2008, or both, but there was no room for me to run that hose under the tank. Here's some pics on how I did it though...
Notice how I ran the hose outside the framerail, between it and the shift linkage. I wrapped my hose in a heat resistant fiberglass mat since it will be so close to my pipe. It is NOT touching the pipe, however.
Step Seven:
The left side hose gets ran on the left side of the bike along with the two clutch hoses. Look closely in the pictures below and you will see it running inside the framerail underneath the gas tank.
Here's all three hoses looking in my left front fender.
Step Eight:
Now we're done with all the hard stuff, it's time to reach the point of no return...
Time to drill some holes in your box top and run some stacks!
*The other holes you see are for my radiator hoses. Remember, I'm relocating my radiator too.
I drilled some 2 1/4" holes in my box top for the 2" fittings to go through. I secured them on the back side using the four metal electrical box nuts.
Here's all my hoses coming up through the access panel in my storage box.
Step Nine:
You can do your stacks many different ways. I inititally intended on running mine straight up, then using a PVC 180 on the end. Instead, I choose to run mine up a little and 45 them back since my relocated radiator sits at about a 45 degreee angle. That's where the (4) 2" 45's come in to play.
Here's a few pictures of mine during the mock-up stages...
Finally, here's one of everything painted and ready to go. I still have a little work to do on my stacks. I need to touch up the paint on them and also tighten them up. I'm having a hard time getting them to tighten up because the threaded portion of the 2" fittings that go thru the box top isn't very long, so my metal nuts can't "bite" real good.
***Finally, an update***
I was able to get my tubes to tighten up a little better with the help of some little sheet metal plates. These allowed a nice flat surface to tighten up the metal nuts on. I also added some 45's to the end of my tubes, to aid in keep mud and water out of them. So far I have had them on for about 25 hours of ride time with no issues.
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